Pre-Fall is the low key season. It is not under the intense media radar of fashion weeks, and non-industry folks tend to be more confused than crazed by it. Why pre-season? It's a merchandising tool to help keep new product in stores. Presentations are in the winter; clothing arrives in stores in June. Despite its dl status, it has recently become my favorite season. I see it as an opportunity for designers to show off their most edited looks and dead on taste. Instead of coming up with the next big thing, they present their brand in its best form. This season Pre-Fall is full of playful knits, leather details, and really really great trousers, and I am genuinely obsessed with a great pair of pants. Here are some of my favorites of my favorite season.
Shot on a street corner in Chelsea with pedestrians and the changing light as background, Givenchy Pre-Fall 12 feels grounded in its environment. Geometrical shapes in a mixture of fabrics and color remind me of the building blocks of a city. Details are dramatic. Eye popping red is fresh and bold; black pony skin fabric captures and manipulates light. Balance comes from menswear inspired tweeds and tailoring. These are clothes that will draw the viewer in and create an allure, but they still can feel classic and timeless.
Before mix and match became a trend, I loved Marni's sense of pattern and texture, but I was never sure I could pull it off. Now I imagine wearing her clothes with abandon. This collection combined two of my favorite trends, heritage and librarian, to create a new take on androgynous dressing. There is an earthy masculinity in the oversized shearling coats, and yet the look is distinctly feminine with an updated loafer and a spicy red lip. It would be easy to feel both strong and demure, outdoorsy and bookwormish in these outfits, and it's a combination I'm ready to try.
Nicole and Michael Colovos said they were inspired by overly caffeinated spiders, who spin erratic webs, and there is something erratically organic about these pieces. Abstract ideas, but the looks flow seamlessly from a strong shouldered jacket to a draped jersey skirt with perfect fit. I love the sweeping effect on the legs. It's asymmetrical and unusual, but not for the sake of it. It creates movement and sexuality like a gentle wave or an extension of the body. I'd like to slink from my favorite coffee shop, to an art opening, and maybe even into my bed in these clothes.
I am completely enthralled by the model on the right. I love her creepers and her darkened eyebrows. Her pale skin and intense stare pulls me into a dark, gothic space, only intensified by the bright blue suit. I know an amazing model doesn't make great clothes, but that's why I included the look on the left as well. It's classic French gamine, but I love the slight changes in proportions like the chunky turtleneck that make it feel 70s collegiate as well. It's all very simple, but that's what I love about it and what make Pre-Fall my season.
Oh and about those perfect pants, here are two of my favorites from M.Patmos(Left) and Ports 1961(Right). I am petite, and a tailored pant hemmed to the ankle is the perfect shape. Just make sure it skims your body, not skin tight, and that the hem hits right at the top of your ankle bone.
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